[MCR] East Ridge of Mt Patterson, Rockies, August 12, 2014

Guided an ascent of the East Ridge of Mount Patterson today with a descent via Delta Creek back to the road.

The route is dry and in good shape and has seen a few ascents in the last week. Other than the glacier at the bottom, all snow patches can be avoided.

There are few steps of bare ice on the low angle glacier that gets you to the base of the 5th class climbing. We put on crampons but you might still be able to sneak around these bits on snow. The glacier descent heading down into Delta Creek has an 80m steeper roll that is also bare ice, so steel crampons were useful here.

The Patterson East Ridge climbing route has been set up to descend all the steepest climbing sections with 30m rappels off of pitons, rock horns, and the occasional bolts, but it would still involve lots of 3rd and 4th class downclimbing. 

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Conrad Janzen

ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff Mountain Guides

Glacier descent into Delta Creek-001.JPG
Description: JPEG image

Low angle glacier below 5th class climbing, Patterson East Ridge-001.JPG
Description: JPEG image

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