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Subject: | [MCR] Mt Fay N Face |
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Date: | Fri, 26 Sep 2014 17:45:41 -0600 |
Friends Glenn, Maarten, and I climbed a direct line up Mt Fay's left couloir (Roth/Bern, Chouinard). Conditions today were Scottish. The rain changed to snow at 2900m and there was limited refreeze. There was about 3cm of new storm snow above the freezing level. Since last Sunday the snow line on the glacier has risen to 2950m and the bridges over the crevasses between the top of the Perren Ledges along the direct approach to the north face were unsupportive. The W Ridge was predominantly snow covered and the descent slope was more icy than last week. The bergshrund is still filled in but the bridge was soft and had failed left and right of where we crossed. There are also some open and hidden crevasses on the flat summit glacier. We kept a rope on to traverse this terrain. Of note, since my last MCR the two fixed rappels on the W Ridge descent have been replaced. We found the first one on the ledge just below the old slung triangular block. The second one was above the old slung boulder. Brent Peters Alpine Guide PeakStratagem.com _______________________________________________ These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information. See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from this list. |
Previous by Date: | [MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 24th, 2014, Public Mountain Conditions Report |
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