[MCR] Mt Fay N Face

Friends Glenn, Maarten, and I climbed a direct line up Mt Fay's left couloir (Roth/Bern, Chouinard).

Conditions today were Scottish. The rain changed to snow at 2900m and there was limited refreeze. There was about 3cm of new storm snow above the freezing level. Since last Sunday the snow line on the glacier has risen to 2950m and the bridges over the crevasses between the top of the Perren Ledges along the direct approach to the north face were unsupportive. The W Ridge was predominantly snow covered and the descent slope was more icy than last week. The bergshrund is still filled in but the bridge was soft and had failed left and right of where we crossed. There are also some open and hidden crevasses on the flat summit glacier. We kept a rope on to traverse this terrain. 

Of note, since my last MCR the two fixed rappels on the W Ridge descent have been replaced. We found the first one on the ledge just below the old slung triangular block. The second one was above the old slung boulder.

Brent Peters

Alpine Guide

PeakStratagem.com

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