Fellow guide Jesse Petersen and I climbed The Sorcerer today. It felt cold in
the Ghost this morning. The first pitches were dry and brittle. Above, the
steeper pitches were quite wet with new chandelier. Protection on these was
reasonable but not abundant. While standing at the top belay an ice dam
released and soaked the climb 1 metre to the left of our line. I recommend the
Goretex and extra gloves if you are headed here in the near future.
We chose to park 500m before the 37km marker because we were a solitary 4wd and
there 5cm of new breakable ice covering the crossing (about 50cm deep). Driving
up to here was good. We walked the vehicle tracks from there and had to cross
the open river twice (up to boot top water). There are 5-10cm of snow on the
approach. The Johnson Lakes are frozen.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com
From the approach drainage.
Leaving the cave belay for P4.
Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________
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