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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued June 25, 2015
The first major heat wave is arriving in the mountains this weekend so expect conditions up high to change quickly as the mountains shed snow and continue to transition to summer. Alpine rock routes that have dried off could be a good way to avoid the heat of the valleys.
Over the next few days you can anticipate limited freezes at upper elevations with only light radiation freezes at lower elevations. Any snow crusts that form will break down quickly in the morning. Loose snow sluffs, cornice failures and snowmelt induced rock fall are likely at higher elevations as the temperatures rise during the day. If you are considering snow or ice climbing this weekend, a really early start and quick travel is recommended so you can be off steep terrain before conditions deteriorate.
In the Rockies, snow and ice climbing conditions in the Columbia Icefields have been very good over the past several days, but climbers on the North Face Bypass route on Mt Athabasca this morning reported a weak overnight freeze and substantial post-holing in areas that were supportive yesterday. Keep an eye out for weakening crevasse bridges as the warm temperatures penetrate the thinner than usual snowpackâ?¦and again a heads up for rock fall.
Observations of Mt Temple and Mt Assiniboine this past week showed quite a bit of snow above 2700m, but below this things are drying quickly. Front range climbs are mostly dry with a few lingering snow patches up high and on shady aspects. Classic alpine rock climbing areas such as Castle and Louis are in good condition as are most other rock routes in the Bow Valley, although south aspects may be too hot to handle by mid-day.
In the Columbia Mountains many alpine rock routes are now in shape. Sir Donald, Mt Tupper and Mt McDonald are being climbed In Rogers Pass, and several peaks in the Bugaboos are starting to see traffic on solar aspects. Expect snow patches and some wet rock to persist at higher elevations, especially on North aspects. Snow travel is reportedly quite good in thick snowpack areas and handy for accessing the alpine more easily than later in the summer. The Kain Hut and Applebee campground are now open for the season.
Drink plenty of water, slather on the sunscreen, seek shade in the valleys and enjoy the weekend.
Conrad Janzen
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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