Just back from a week based at the Bill Putnam Hut.
The Granite Glacier is quite dry and is challenging to travel. Much of the glacier is bare ice but requires travel across snow plugged crevasses, especially towards Austerity and Adamant. It looks more promising heading towards Unicorn and perhaps Colossal with more snow in the glacial depressions heading that way.
A party traversed Pioneer Pass and reported several pitches of steep ice up to Grade 3/4.
The Echo Glacier below Friendship Col is mostly snow free. The right hand lobe carries a lot of rock and the ice is dirty with rockfall potential there. The left hand lobe is significantly cleaner with less rockfall hazard but it is steeper.
The Gothics glacier is easier travel although there are still many crevasses showing.
Precipitation from early in the week lingers in the form of snow on ledges above 3000 m.
Mark Klassen
Todd Anthony-Malone
ACMG