[MCR] Mnt. Athabasca, 15/08/05

Hello

I guided an attempt on Athabasca yesterday.  Via the Ramp route (N. glacier normal in The Alpine Select Guide).  The glacier is blue ice to 2800m. 50-100cm's of fern snow sit on the ice above this elevation.  The crevasses on the normal route above this elevation still remain bridged nicely.   The bridge strength in the afternoon is suspect though,  due to the warming temperatures.  Where obvious sags and air pockets are present.

There was a small amount of new snow up to 3cms above 2850m from the night of 15/08/04.  Which in pockets of lee areas the storm snow was 5-7cm's from overnight West winds.  This new snow quickly became moist to ridge top elevations in the later AM.  Making for careful cramponing coming back down the Ramp.

Given these conditions, I would say Athabasca North Glacier and Silverhorn routes are in ideal mountaineering shape.  If you time it with a cooler or cloudy day.

Again, the flavour this year.   Electrical activity potential was the reason I pulled the pin yesterday on route.

Jon Simms 

Jonny Simms                             

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

1(604)815-9225

Golden, BC

http://jonnysimms.com

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