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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 25, 2015
As of Friday, there is fresh snow falling above treeline in the Rockies. Forecasted amounts are for between 5 and 15cm of new snow, with a clearing trend starting later on Saturday. This new snow will likely persist at higher elevations for several days and you can expect verglass on the rocks as it melts. Higher elevation rock climbs and scrambles will be slippery.
The past several weeks have allowed accumulations on the glaciers to reach 30 to 100cm depending on elevation and aspect, and the snowline Friday morning was still down to 2200m on North aspects. The colder temperatures and new snow and have allowed some North facing alpine ice routes to come back into shape as the bergschrunds get filled by sluffing, and the rockfall is reduced. Conditions on some routes could be quite good by the middle of the week once the new snow has a chance to settle and bond, but many crevasses are now thinly bridged and there is enough snow to create avalanches. Travel with a snug rope and plenty of probing on the glaciers, evaluate snow conditions carefully, and consider bringing avalanche gear for higher elevation snow and ice routes.
The front ranges should dry out quickly, especially on solar aspects or at lower elevations, and provide good rock climbing options starting on Sunday. By midweek south and East facing routes such as Mt Louis and Castle Mountain should be back in shape as well.
The interior ranges are experiencing similar conditions with higher elevations receiving fresh snow and accumulations on the glaciers increasing and making glacier travel tricky. Again lower elevation and solar aspect climbing is probably the best bet in the next few days.
Fall has arrived, the larches are in full color, there is a super moon eclipse on Sunday night and the forecast for great weather starts Sunday.
Conrad Janzen
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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