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Climbed Bourgeau Right on Dec 15 with one guest. The route is in excellent shape, takes good protection throughout and should stay for a while. Avalanche hazard was minimal on the route, however we did bring avalanche gear. All the rappel stations were uncovered as of yesterday however the top station will likely get covered again soon. A topo of the descent is included below if it is helpful. (Photo is from 2013)
Today we climbed Kitty Hawk along with another group. The second pitch is thin but well bonded and protects with short ice screws, the final pillar is in excellent shape. We added a bolt to the belay station on climber's left below the final pillar. The pitons were no longer trust worthy and the old bolt is well past its expiry date. A second bolt would be very useful here if someone has the time, it is a good belay spot for the final pillar. Minimal avalanche hazard on this route right now.
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