Climbed Polar Circus yesterday (Dec 16) The approach ice is thin, but climable.
Didn't get any results on hand shear tests on the slopes turning the pencil.
The pencil is not even close to forming. However there are nasty daggers
that look quite fragile! You would 't want to be under it on the wrong day -
ie... Super warm or a cold snap. Today conditions were perfect and the temps
were -10 degrees. The 1st half of that ice pitch is exposed to the daggers.
One of the stations was half missing in the first pitch of the upper tier.
With a 70 meter you would bypass it. The crux of the route is doing some mix
moves to get to last station.
Cheers,
Marco
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Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com
1 403 609-5580
1 403 609-1074
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