I just spent three days in the Mummery group. We bivouacked at 6600 feet
below the SE flank of Mummery. The approach up the Blaeberry River to
Mummery Creek was beginning to wash out when we drove up on July 11th, and
the road was completely submerged for the drive back. The road was
passable on the return drive, but may not remain so with the high water.
All creeks were running full volume, milky with silt and very fast flowing.
There is still a log bridge over Mummery Creek where the trail crosses to
the moraine.
Conditions on Mummery were similar to other reports - very good travel on
firm snow, with no crampons required. Crevasses were still well filled,
with good snow coverage. However, during the three days, there was
significant snow melt - snowline noticeably receded up-valley, snow patches
evaporated into rock, small ice patches became large, snow bridges were
beginning to sag , and a few crevasses and bergschrunds opened up.
Cornices were not large, but we were cognizant of the few that remained,
and stayed away from them. We were also wary of rockfall as soon as the
sun hit the mountain. By mid-day, surface sluffing was also a concern on
steeper solar aspects, and we were able to initiate many moist point
releases from the ridge crest that gained significant mass by the time they
stopped.
Of note, the summit register had entries from the 1958 ACC GMC, with the
first entry being Hans Gmoser, and the next entry was in 1990, and nothing
since. I know there have been many parties up there in between, but
perhaps the register was under snow? In any event, quite a historical
find.
Sylvia Forest
Alpine Specialist, IFMGA
Mt. Revelstoke and Glacier National Parks
Ph. 250-814-5206
Fax 250-814-5204
sylvia.forest@xxxxxxxx
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