My guest and I enjoyed excellent conditions on Super Bock today March
10th. We chose to hike in from the highway and there is still a couple of
good ice bridges to make the crossing.
In the lower half of the gully we had easy travel on firm avalanche debris
that came out the west facing(left hand) slopes sometime in the last week.
Above the little ice step the snowpack in the gully is very supportive and
travel was quick. We climbed a right hand line on the upper pitches and
the ice was in good shape and we found good screw placements throughout.
This was my third time on the route in the last month and the last pitch seems
to be getting steeper? Or maybe I’m just getting tired.
We were off the climb by 130p.m.
Climbed Murchison yesterday and nothing has changed since Barry’s
post. The sun’s heat was strong yesterday and the climb is fully in the
sun by 2p.m.. Be careful your screw placements don’t melt out in the
afternoon sun.
super bock
Murchison
Kristopher
Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide